⌚Did you know this about Zenith?
In this weeks edition of Timepiece Digest I'll take you through the history of a brand that isn't talked enough about...Zenith.
In this week’s edition of Timepiece Digest, we’re diving into one of the most storied watch brands in horology—Zenith. From revolutionizing watchmaking in the 1800s to crafting the legendary El Primero movement that powered Rolex Daytonas, Zenith’s journey is nothing short of epic. So grab a coffee, sit back, and learn everything you need to know—in 6 minutes.
The start of Zenith
Zenith SA was founded in 1865 by George Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland. His dream was simple - to create the most precise watch known to mankind. In 1880 Zenith went worldwide, making themselves known all around the globe and developing key relationships with the biggest retailers. George had an idea, he wanted to change how watchmakers worked, instead of them working in isolation in their own huts he wanted to put everyone under the same roof all working together. What he created wasn’t just a factory—it was the first industrial-style watch manufacture in history. He made sure the walls were covered with windows to let in loads of light and it was built next to a train station to speed up imports and exports. This worked… very well. He had created his own sort of ‘watch city’ and at the peak had 1000 employees all working together producing around 350,000 a year. Almost 1000 a day without any of the technology we have today.
Source: Swisswatches
In 1888 George registered the trademark for ‘PILOTe’ and later changed to ‘PILOT’ and today Zenith remains the only watch brand that can have ‘PILOT’ on its dials. In 1890s they developed the Zenith calibre and were later awarded the gold medal at the 1900 Paris Universal Exhibition. In 1911 George officially named the company ‘Zenith’ due to the success of the Zenith Calibre. The official timekeeping of Switzerland was even based on Zenith’s regulator, which was used as a reference to set the precise time.
In 1969 the now famous El Primero movement was created, the world’s first automatic chronograph (it operated at 36,000 vibrations per hour) . But in 1975, as the Quartz Crisis ravaged the Swiss industry, Zenith’s leadership decided to cease mechanical watch production—including the El Primero.
One man, Charles Vermot, didn’t accept that. Defying orders, he hid the blueprints, tools, and components for the El Primero in the attic of the factory. Thanks to his quiet rebellion, Zenith was able to revive the movement in the 1980s.
Fun twist? Rolex used a modified El Primero in the Daytona from 1988 to 2000. Yes, that Rolex Daytona was powered by a movement Zenith almost destroyed.
Charles Vermot’s quiet act of defiance saved not just Zenith’s legacy—but arguably Rolex’s as well.
Source: Bobs watches
“Enjoying the story so far? Subscribe to Timepiece Digest and get horological deep dives like this every week—delivered straight to your inbox.
Where are Zenith at now?
In 1999 Zenith was purchased by LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) for $48.4 Million USD. This was a strategy by LVMH to strengthen their watch and jewelry portfolio, they are also the owners of Tag Heuer, Hublot, Bulgari and many more…
Current standouts include the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline, and Pilot collections—all powered by the latest-generation El Primero movements and showcasing Zenith’s blend of heritage and innovation.
This year Zenith Celebrated their 160th anniversary and released a blue ceramic trilogy of their watches and also brought back their legendary calibre, the 135.
Now what about their financials? How’s the brand stacking up to everyone else? Let’s find out! Now since they are owned by LVMH who do not disclose any figures, these are estimates.
Produce around 25,000 watches a year
Revenue $150-200 Million
Employees (Around) 300
Average watch price - $7,000
Zenith Facts
Zenith has won over 2,300 chronometry prizes, making it one of the most awarded brands in watchmaking history.
In 2012, Felix Baumgartner wore a Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th during his record-breaking skydive from the stratosphere.
Zenith was the first watch brand to open its manufacture to the public, offering tours in collaboration with the Neuchâtel Tourism Office.
Crafting a Zenith El Primero watch involves over 150 individuals and takes approximately nine months to complete.
Mahatma Gandhi owned a Zenith pocket watch, which he used to time his daily prayers.
Aviator Louis Blériot wore a Zenith watch during his historic 1909 flight across the English Channel.
Zenith may not be a household name like Rolex, but it’s arguably more authentic, more innovative, and just as important in the grand story of watchmaking.
Next time you see a Daytona, remember: its soul came from Le Locle.
Thanks for reading—if you learned something new, consider subscribing and sharing this with a fellow watch nerd. See you next week!